Fish Fight

In the movie “Once Upon a Time in Mexico”, Johnny Depp’s character, Agent Sands, ordered Puerco Pibil from each restaurant he visited and compared it to the other iterations from restaurants across Mexico as a barometer of the status quo. The result of discovering version of the dish beyond the status quo was a horrific end to the chef who prepared it. In my case, I’d rather celebrate the dish and the restaurant that offers it.

 Of the restaurants I have visited with some level of regularity, if I find fish tacos on the menu, I will most likely give them a try. For those times that I would like a quick bite, a dish that is light but has some sustenance to it, I have found the fish soft taco to be the ideal choice.

Sampled at:

• El Camion Ave A NYC 
• Tolani W80th St NYC 
• Mercadito Ave B NYC 

I’ll begin with my favorite, found at El Camion. Beer-battered codfish – cucumber slaw and avocado cream (flour taco). El Camion’s fish taco is presented as lightly coated and fried chunks of codfish. They are careful not to overwhelm the fish with the add-ons or taco shell. This balance permits you to recognize the prominence of the fish, the accent of the slaw/avocado, bound in the taco shell’s base.

Tolani, my number two, makes a pretty good fish taco as well. While the flavors, presentation, and creativity combine to bring a smile to my face, the “House Made Corn Tomatillo Salsa” slightly overtakes the personality of the fish.

 Mercadito, my least favorite of the fish tacos presented here is by no means lacking. Their sautéed tilapia, poblano-tomatillo mojo, avocado is very tasty, but the fish becomes lost in the midst. The corn tortilla, which also wraps Tolani’s fish taco, offers a level of authenticity that I appreciate. However, the rustic feel is not necessary and detracts from the texture of the fish. Perhaps corn tortillas should be reserved for beef, chicken, and pork.

 The beauty of this Fish Fight, or “recipeat” is how a simple and bland piece of fish (cod or tilapia) can take on such different forms and tastes with modest variations in the toppings and shell.

If you care to bring the taco fiesta home, check out "Tacos, Tortas, and Tamales: Flavors from the Griddles, Pots, and Streetside Kitchens of Mexico"for some great recipe ideas.